San Rafael Swell is one of Utah’s best kept secrets. It is filled with unworldly beauty but is not overrun by tourists. Keep reading to discover the best things to do in San Rafael Swell if you only have one day!
How to Spend One Day at Utah’s San Rafael Swell
Table of Contents
- Where is San Rafael Swell?
- Rent ATVs in Ferron
- Explore the North Coal Wash Trail
- Cross Fixit Pass
- Visit Swasey Cabin
- Hike to the Icebox
- Attempt to conquer the Devil’s Racetrack
- Things to know before you ride ATVs at San Rafael Swell:
Where is San Rafael Swell?
San Rafael Swell is a wilderness area located in Emery County in the central-eastern pocket of Utah.
It encompasses over 2,000 square miles extending near Price from the north and almost all the way down to Hanksville on the south.
This relatively untouched remote region was once home to dinosaurs, the Fremont Indians, miners, and even outlaws.
It is even documented that Butch Cassidy hid out among the caves and rock formations in the area after stealing the payroll from a coal mine in Castle Gate.
Kevin Costner was recently in San Rafael Swell scouting out locations for an upcoming movie, so don’t be surprised if you see some of this jaw-dropping landscape on the big screen!
Rent ATVs in Ferron
The best way to explore San Rafael Swell is by ATV. There are so many cool spots that can only be reached by an off-road vehicle.
We rented ATVs from Side Trax Rentals in the nearby town of Ferron. There are limited options in the area and we felt like Side Trax was the best option for both price and location.
I recommend getting the full-day rental so that you have time to see everything without being rushed.
If you want to spend the night and get an early start in the morning, the Big Mountain Lodge is located just across the street from the rental facility.
They offer cabins and motel rooms that are basic but affordable.
Explore the North Coal Wash Trail
The North Coal Wash Trail can be conveniently accessed right from town so you do not need to transport the ATVs to a trailhead.
The ATV rental office will give you maps and recommendations. I would also highly recommend downloading the Avenza Maps app beforehand so that you can access the trail maps offline.
We decided to take the North Coal Wash Trail to Fixit Pass.
Then we took a detour to Swasey Cabin before looping back up to the South Coal Wash Trail.
We then took the Devil’s Racetrack before connecting back to the North Coal Wash.
Here is a map with the general route that we took:
The entire loop was roughly 55 miles and it took us about 12 hours with plenty of stops along the way.
After picking up our rentals, we headed out on the North Coal Wash Trail without another soul in sight.
There is so much rugged beauty and adventure in this region and you can enjoy it all to yourselves.
Cool off at the Weeping Rock
While heading south on the North Coal Wash Trail from Ferron, after several miles the first point of interest you’ll come to is the Weeping Wall.
Cold water from an underground spring drips out of the rock making for a natural shower!
It is a refreshing place to stop and cool off, especially on a hot summer day.
Stop at Slipper Arch
Continue on until you see an impressive arch off to the left of the North Coal Wash OHV Trail.
There are a total of 75 arches found within San Rafael Swell, it’s like a mini Arches National Park!
One of the most impressive arches is Slipper Arch.
If you have time, you can even climb up to the arch where you can take in sweeping views of the surrounding area.
Cross Fixit Pass
The North Coal Wash Trail connects to Fixit Pass where you’ll climb a steep rocky ascent.
The Fixit Pass OHV Trail is rated difficult. As you climb the mountain, the trail becomes more technical with some tricky parts to navigate.
I would recommend this portion of the trail to only more experienced ATV drivers.
But if you’re comfortable maneuvering over boulders, it is a fun adventure and worth it for the views!
Once you reach the top, the landscape transforms from white rock to red dirt as you descend down into Cane Wash.
Lunch stop at caves
Further down the Cane Wash Trail, you’ll come to the perfect resting point for a lunch break.
You’ll find a series of shallow caves formed at the base of a cliff.
Here you can enjoy eating lunch in the cool shade while the kids run around and explore.
See the ancient Pictographs
Continue along until you reach a spur trail leading to a cliff face decorated with ancient pictographs.
Unfortunately, some of the rock has eroded and portions of the pictographs have fallen off, but it’s still neat to catch a glimpse of the rich Native American history that can be found in this valley.
There are also a lot of cool rocks and trees to climb. It is another great place to let the kids run around and explore.
Another pictograph wall is located a little further south, just look for another short spur trail.
Visit Swasey Cabin
Head south and cross through a tunnel leading under I-70 then navigate your way to Swasey Cabin.
This one-room cabin was built in 1921 by Joe Swasey and his three brothers, Sid Charley, and Rod.
They were some of the early cattlemen to settle in San Rafael Swell.
You may even recognize their names on some of the features found in the Swell, such as ‘Sid’s Leap’, ‘Joe and His Dog’, and the twin hoodoos ‘Sid and Charley Tower’ that are popular for rock climbing.
The sturdy cabin was built using Douglas Fir from the nearby Eagle Canyon and has been standing for over 100 years.
They used the cabin as a shelter from the late 1800s to the early 1900s for themselves and other cowboys running cattle in the area.
There is a restroom located at the Swasey Cabin parking lot. It’s the only one you’ll find in the area so be sure to take advantage of it!
Hike to the Icebox
There is a short 0.2-mile trail near Swasey Cabin that leads to the Icebox, a tall narrow cave where the Swasey brothers used to store perishable goods.
The Icebox Trail starts behind the cabin at a large rock alcove referred to as ‘Joe’s Office’.
This is perhaps the coolest ‘office space’ that I’ve ever seen!
As you continue along the trail, you’ll come to an old watering trough. The Icebox is located just past this at the end of the trail.
There are also several other shallow slot canyons to explore and awesome rocks to climb in the area. Just be sure to keep your eye out for rattlesnakes, we almost stepped on a baby rattler.
After you’re done exploring the area, take the South Coal Wash Trail heading north. Along the way, you’ll pass a few notable rock formations, including Dutchman Arch and Chimney Rock.
Attempt to conquer the Devil’s Racetrack
From this point, you have two options to get back. You can take the easier route along Eagle Canyon, or you can attempt to conquer the Devil’s Racetrack.
Here is a helpful post with directions for the Eagle Canyon trail and a map that shows you both routes.
Since we had experienced drivers that have done the Devil’s Racetrack, we decided to tackle it.
This 10-mile trail is definitely not for the faint of heart, but if you are craving an adrenalin rush, then this will do it for you!
The terrain is quite rough and technical with large boulders you’ll need to crawl over.
Once you reach the top, you’ll have spectacular views over the canyon, but beware of the sheer drop-offs.
This trail definitely rivaled some of our favorite trails in Moab, but without all of the crowds!
As incredible as this trail is, only attempt it if you are an experienced driver.
Whether you take the Eagle Canyon route or the Devil’s Racetrack, you will be ready to head back after a long day of adventuring!
And if you’re looking for more ATV trails to explore, check out Six Mile Canyon in the Manti-La Sal National Forest, Peekaboo Canyon in Kanab, or the West Rim Trail at Sand Hollow.
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Things to know before you ride ATVs at San Rafael Swell:
- The trails are very remote with no cell reception, come prepared!
- Bring extra containers filled with gas.
- Be sure to bring more food and water than you think you’ll need. It can get hot in the summer!
- The washes are filled with deep sand that can cause overheating if there is too much weight on the ATV. This happened to one of our 4-wheelers.
- I would recommend bringing a few cans of Fix-A-Flat. We actually got a flat tire on our way back and were saved by this! I was shocked at how well it worked and the patch held up for the entire 20-mile ride back.
- Be sure to pack a first aid kit and emergency essentials for any possible scenario. The ATV we rented didn’t come equipped with a winch, but I would definitely recommend getting one if you are driving your own ATV. My dad had one on his ATV and we put it to use when we needed to tow the 4-wheeler out of the sand.
- Download the Avenza maps app before you go, or another app that allows you to download and navigate maps offline.
Be safe and enjoy your day exploring San Rafael Swell!
Travel guides for other things to do in the area:
- First Time Guide to Goblin Valley
- Discover a Unique Getaway in Bluff Utah
- Spring City: One of the Cutest Small Towns in Utah
[…] another one of our favorite ATV trails, check out the Devil’s Racetrack in San Rafael […]